Hyperion is certainly the label for completist collectors: who could possibly forget Leslie Howard’s 142-CD Liszt series, which seemed to last for years and the similarly interminable Romantic Piano Concerto series whose first recording appeared in 1991. Now it’s Angela Hewitt dotting the “I’s” and crossing the “Ts” in her Beethoven cycle with a CD of some of his variations.

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I’d never heard of the 32 Variations on an Original Theme in C Minor, WoO80, which has never been accepted into the official canon. Hewitt invests this work, infused with the spirit of the Baroque and the austere elegance of the chaconne and the sarabande. The soft ending seems to come as a gentle reproof to anyone who thought he couldn’t...